STRONGDOGZ™

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Countless dogs are being trained to act aggressively for the simple ground that who ever is on the other end of the lead is nervous and communicates that nervousness to the dog. It means, you’re saying, “That a approaching individual or dog is a danger. Protect me!” If this is the situation, you must initially amend this approach first, subsequently change your dog’s aggressive behavior by following this strategy.

The only solution to this problem is management. For example, using a halter-style collar will aid you.

* Hold your dog in such a way as to not be place off its sense of balance. Keep your elbows bent with your arms near to your body. Keep your knees somewhat bent and stabilize your weight.

* Organize to include an additional dog to walk by at a distance adequately to lessen the possibility of triggering hostile behaviour. Be prepared to reward your dog for moments of quiet behaviour. Then repeat this a few times.

*After that, have the other dog walk a bit closer to your dog, in addition to this ask your dog to pay close attention to you and you alone. Reward him/her as soon as she does. Repeat this exercise, increasingly diminishing the distance between the dogs.

* Divert your dog attention with a noise or movement to stop the lunging behavior before it start.

* When another dog walks by, use the “Jolly Routine” I’e talk and do something happily and excitedly, give him/her a treat or their preferred toy. This method from K9 behaviour specialist William Campbell helps alter the way your dog perceives an approaching dog by getting him/her to associate the approach with positive things such as praise and fun.

* Try to set up training situations that include a less aggressive dog. Reward that dog first, then give your aggressive dog a reward too. Repeat this over and over by touching the other dog and throwing your dog a treat. Ultimately the aggressive dog will start to look at the other dog in a positive way.

* Consistently practice behaviours such as sit and stay, try to push your dog to progressing to advanced levels. When your dog is completely focused on you, the aggressive behaviour will lessen as he/she relinquishes control to you.


 The Lead  (Your Best Protection) when 


keeping your dog on a lead when in public is the best way to prevent the dog from chasing other animals, humans, cars…jumping up on people who don’t wish to meet dogs up close…getting lost, falling down manholes and getting hit by cars. It also gives you some control if another dog gets in a fight with yours.

Getting Pulled by Your Dog?

If your dog simply pulls when walking, will teach him that the walking will stop and will not resume until he/she calms down. As the oncoming person or dog approaches, put him into a “sit-stay position” and switch his attention back to you. Praise him/her thoroughly. You can use small treats to help underpin this behaviour. But don’t wait until you’re out in public to try to teach your dog “sit” and “stay.”

Firstly, teach him these vital instructions in a setting with no distractions, increasingly adding distractions as he/she shows  understands the preferred behaviour
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  Remember Fear is Contagious – Don’t Telegraph Anxiety to Your Dog


. Sustain the trust of your dog when strangers approach, project self-assurance as well as to make certain you do not telegraph fear through the lead or by your body language or communication. You do not want the dog to think you are nervous about strangers or dogs approaching you. You want the dog focused on you, not the passersby.

When a dog feels threatened by an approaching dog, human even a horse or other animals, he/she will impulsively try to do one of three things: scrap, flee, or try to work things out. By staying tranquil and in control, you can help the dog work things out and realize that passersby are not a threat.
 But too frequently, owners pass their own anxieties onto their dog. A dog can sense his owner is nervous about the approaching dog or people. Nervous reactions such as tightening the lead, yanking on the lead, and talking in a stressful or noisy behaviour will hinder the dog’s capability to work things out with the approaching dog… and if he cannot flee, he may resort to the fight option. Nervous owners behaviour also reinforces fear and suspicion of strangers, making the dog more aggressive to other dog and people.

Warding Off Loose Dogs 


In addition to Kathy Diamond Davis’s suggestion about automated opening umbrellas, here are some other things that dog walkers should bring with them to help ward off loose dogs: water pistols, plant misters (some with diluted vinegar), air horns, and tasty chew treats and sticks to throw to send a loose dog running in a different path.

Bicyclists, Skaters, Skateboarders, Joggers 

, many dogs are fearful of people speeding by on bikes, skates and skateboards. As for joggers, some dogs don’t like them, and others are prone to chase them. Remember, that dogs, by character, are predators. So when somebody speeds past them or startles them, some dogs may automatically assault them out of fear to defend themselves and their owners. When you see bicyclists, skaters and runners approaching, keep your dog on lead close to you, and always ensue to follow the management information elsewhere in this guide.

But the vey first lessons to teach your dog is to pay attention to you. Before taking your dog to public places, it is imperative that your dog knows he/she can count on you, and to look to you, for direction. It’s equally imperative for you to know how to recapture your dog’s attention when he is wound up, agitated, scared or otherwise preoccupied by somebody or something else along whilst out in public. 




Perform these tips so that when you are out on your walk with your dog, you’ll be able to keep and recapture your dog’s attention. Keep his/her focused on you, and as soon as you become aware of a impending situation as a loose dogs, jogger, bicyclist, skater give him/her a behaviour signal, such as “Sit Stay”or “Watch Me’ Carry a bag treats, and a clicker if you use this helpful apparatus, so that you’ll be equipped at all times. Be certain to reward in addition to orally praise your dog for listening to you. Don’t give a release prompt (such as ‘OK’) until you are well clear of the commotion.
 Also, it pays to train your dog to accept triggers such as bicyclists, joggers and pushchairs. You can accustom your dog to bikes, pushchairs and people with the help of a enthusiastic acquaintance or friend in the course of a few brief lessons.

If you have an adolescent dog or recently adopted adult dog, beginning this training, as part of socialization, from the onset. If your dog has previously developed a fear of, or violent behavior towards, such triggers, recruit the help of a high-quality optimistic, methods coach/behaviorist rather than let the condition escalates into a bite.
 You can what’s more find comprehensive steps for counter training responses as well as desensitizing dogs to such fear triggers in ‘The Fearful Dog’ and other books in the Helpful Books for Pet People.

Becoming as well as being the master in your dog’s eyes will make walks, and life, much more enjoyable for you as well as your dog and the people you come across on outings. 
If the chasing or defensive behaviour occurs when the dog is your back garden-watching passerby, call him/her to come to you. When she comes, simply and lovingly let her know everything is all right and she is a good boy/girl.

STRONGDOGZ™ KENNELS