For further guidelines designed for those trying to desensitize dogs to stimulus (such as approaching dogs, pushchairs, skateboarders, joggers) have a look at Pet Owner’s Peeve by Sharon Kirby. Lets start with the trainer, The trainer of the reacting dog must measure at a distance, what causes the dog to bark and as desensitization continues progressively you can get closer. I often cross the road or reposition myself and my dog farther away from person and dog approaching me and my dog in order to get to that “secure” distance where I know my dogs will feel at ease as well as paying attention to me and not bother about the other dog. Personally I am possibly at about the 10-15 foot distance now.” Patricia McConnell’s booklet, “Feisty Fido”, offers a abundance of information about desensitizing dogs on daily walks.
For example: spend time outside of a place frequented by dogs such as vet or pet store – at an suitable distance of course – and use desensitization apparatus like treats and toys to progressively restructure the dog’s behaviour as well as implant the suggestion that other dogs are a good thing. Also as a suggestion, cross the street at unusual times and places not just at intersections. Think of it this way, If you cross a street only to evade another dog, your dog will soon catch on to what you’re doing and start looking for the other dog every time you change the side of the road your on. Your eventual goal should be when your dog notices another dog, he/she will look at you for direction without being asked.” Grounding your dogs in the values of obeying Sit or Stay and Down instructions is imperative. As for the fearful dog, classic behavior adjustment can be the key to changing behaviour. “Even if I thought my dogs might handle being 6 feet or less from a strange dog and there owner, I would not try it “why” because so many other owners have extension leads, or even those using a normal lead will let their dog have sufficient freedom to come right up and sniff noses without checking with the other dog’s owner first.” Sharon suggests that the Canine Good Citizen (CGC) test “meeting” would be the typical in a entirely polite world, but hardly ever do dog handlers use it in real life. One clever technique is the 3 second sniff for dog greetings, but this requires that a handler must be able to effectively and constantly recall the dog from the greeting after the count of 3.
Now on the other hand, I’ve never seen any real life dog owners in my community ever manage to do this. Sometimes their gracious dogs are so wild that even when you are 15-20 feet away, the dogs drag their owners in my direction. I’ve even seen a healthy adult male cannot keep a small 25-pound dog at his side without a struggle, and they still slowly sidle towards us! Then there are the people who don’t share the idea that canines, and humans, should be allowed some personal space; they allow their dogs to get “in the face of other dogs without a second thought as to the temperament or needs of the other dog, even though the other dog might be afraid, dog-aggressive, ill, recovering from illness, and thus, “not up for visitors.” These examples show that even people whose dogs do not exhibit aggression can benefit from the guidance of a good trainer. When you’re out walking be aware of keeping distance between your dog and other dogs and people. Even if your dog poses no visible threat, it’s the courteous thing to do.
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